Behind the Pebble Beach a small lagoon lined with vegetation. 

Sail to Anaho, on the northeast corner of Nuku Hiva. About a 6 hour motor-sail. Careful the rock on the SE corner of the island, off Controller Bay and Tikapo pt.

One of the most scenic and protected bays in the Marquesas.  It’s where Marquesans go to vacation.  Can’t help but sing the Bali Hai song from the musical South Pacific.

To protect the coral, anchor south of the coral carved dinghy path.

Good snorkeling, safe (no sharks, sometimes jellyfish), clear, often times manta rays. Don’t eat any fish caught there. (Ciguatera).

Fresh spring water available on the beach for drinking and bathing.

Careful, no-no’s on the beach and more so to the east.

Good surfing and a plantation on the beach over the small hill to the east, but be warned—mega no-no’s on this beach, so run to the surf.

Many artisans live in this bay, including a well-known Marquesan tattoo artist, Moana, when he’s not in Taiohae.

Another Moana, Moana Sr., owns the neighboring fruit and vegetable farm and has re-opened a small pension that serves meals. This makes two pensions that sometime serve meals, but difficult to count on.  Usually about $10 a large plate of local fare.

Nice hike up and over western ridge to Hatiheu and back (2.5 hr R/T), start early as it gets hot. Easier coming back than going.  Some say they walk it in half the time.

Northern Swell = Controller’s Bay’s Bays to the southeast of Nuku Hiva

Sail south along the east coast, sharp turn around the SE corner of Nuku Hiva (careful, there’s still that killer rock off the point to worry about)

Hoomi to the east, Hakapuvai to the west, Taipi Vai in between.

Coral surrounds these bays, so anchor down the middle of each bay.

West side bay only good if no swell.

Eric Rigney - SY Kandu

Sail to Anaho, on the northeast corner of Nuku Hiva. About a 6 hour motor-sail. Careful the rock on the SE corner of the island, off Controller Bay and Tikapo pt.

One of the most scenic and protected bays in the Marquesas.  It’s where Marquesans go to vacation.  Can’t help but sing the Bali Hai song from the musical South Pacific.

To protect the coral, anchor south of the coral carved dinghy path.

Good snorkeling, safe (no sharks, sometimes jellyfish), clear, often times manta rays. Don’t eat any fish caught there. (Ciguatera).

Fresh spring water available on the beach for drinking and bathing.

Careful, no-no’s on the beach and more so to the east.

Good surfing and a plantation on the beach over the small hill to the east, but be warned—mega no-no’s on this beach, so run to the surf.

Many artisans live in this bay, including a well-known Marquesan tattoo artist, Moana, when he’s not in Taiohae.

Another Moana, Moana Sr., owns the neighboring fruit and vegetable farm and has re-opened a small pension that serves meals. This makes two pensions that sometime serve meals, but difficult to count on.  Usually about $10 a large plate of local fare.

Nice hike up and over western ridge to Hatiheu and back (2.5 hr R/T), start early as it gets hot. Easier coming back than going.  Some say they walk it in half the time.

Buy fresh baguettes to give to locals as gifts the same day you buy it.

Leave Taiohae, sail west to Hakatea and anchor on the eastern bay (“Daniel’s” Bay, where Survivor was shot.  Daniel passed away a few years ago) (1-1.5 hr motorsail).  Careful, lots of no-no’s, some even fly to the anchored boat.

Walk west along bay’s north shore to Hakaui Bay.

Wade through river to other side (good place to run your dinghy to give it a fresh water internal rinse)

Along the way, make lunch reservations for your return trip (4 hrs R/T) with one of the valley families.  Teiki and Kua, as you enter the village, are favorites, but all meals from any family here are great.  $10pp.

Walk to one of the world’s most breathtaking waterfalls, following a not so carefully marked path.  Walking through the stream is sometimes safer than negotiating slippery rocks and tree trunks over the stream.  After three trips prior, we went with a guide, Thierry, and saw three times as much, and more safely.

WARNING: Rocks can fall from atop, esp. open field close to falls.  Move quickly and quietly when adjacent cliffs.  Don’t attempt this hike if raining, or rain predicted.  Swimming to fall’s base places you in danger of falling rock.  Fresh water eels live in pond and in stream. Not harmful, but they nip.

Wear bug repellent and re-apply after swimming in waterfall pond.