Hienghene got our attention, steals your heart, and I actually went on a 3-hour walk in the hills. 
It’s a MUST !!!

Awesome spot - meet the locals - this is core Kanak Culture !

If you take time to read the   history you will always remember and be touched by Hienghene.

The anchorage in the lagoon at Barra de Navidad is a very popular spot for cruising boats and is the starting point of the Panama Posse Rally which sails from California to Florida. However the marina and the lagoon itself have plenty of space for dozens of boats. The lagoon is exposed to wind from the northwest but is otherwise wonderfully calm and tranquil. Sand flies and mosquitos can be a problem here.

Approaches

The entrance to the sinuous channel into Laguna de Barra de Navidad lies behind the town in the southeast corner of the bay. In moderate to large swell conditions breaking waves form across the bar. Wait for calm conditions to enter the lagoon.

The channel is marked with paired green/red buoys as far as the marina. From the marina entrance it is unmarked but steer approximately SE towards waypoint 119o 11.71’N 104o  40.54’W to enter the lagoon. The channel is fairly straight and approximately 5m deep.

Anchorage

The lagoon has several shoal areas so keep your eyes peeled when choosing a spot to anchor. Anchoring depth in the lagoon is about 2-4m on mud. Anchors have been known to drag on the muddy bottom, particularly in the afternoon when the NW breezes picks up. Dinghy into the dinghy dock at the marina or at one of the docks in town on the inside of the lagoon.

Facilities

The town of Barra de Navidad boasts several grocery stores and a fish market, one or two laundromats and numerous restaurants. The French baker here is legendary, call him on VHJF22 and he will deliver right to your boat. There are a couple of ATMs but the nearest bank is in Melaque. The water taxi from the anchorage to town is good value.

During the mid-16th century the Spanish used the lagoon for ship building and as a departure point for fleets leaving for the Philippines. In 2012 the town was damaged by a hurricane but has since rebuilt and has much to offer tourists and cruisers alike including sports fishing, surfing, golf, and hiking as well as the usual snorkeling and diving. Explore the canals on the east side of the town, the entrance is east of the palace on Punta Vela island.

The natural land shield of islands and sand bar makes the inner bay at Puerto Escondido one of the best hurricane holes in the Sea of Cortez. The bay is totally protected from any swell and only exposed to winds from the north and southeast.

Unfortunately anchoring in this wonderful natural harbour is prohibited leaving a berth in the marina or moorings owned by the marina as the only options.

Puerto Escondido lies within the Loreto Bay National Marine Park which stretches from Isla Colorado in the north to Isla Carolina in the south. Upwellings and wind-driven currents in this area pull nutrients up to the surface attracting blue whales, humpbacks and dolphins as well a hosts of fish and seabirds. The national park became a United Nations World Heritage Site in 2005.

Approaches

The minimum depth in the entrance channel into the Inner Bay and the marina is 11’ and it is regularly dredged.

Anchorage

In 2018 anchoring in the Puerto Escondido Inner Bay was prohibited. 119 moorings are available from the marina for a fee. As of 2019 the fee for a 30-40’ boat is 3.60 peso/ft plus tax. Getting ashore is easiest at the dinghy dock in the marina.

Facilities

Water is available at the end of the dinghy dock for boaters in the anchorage. The marina has a small grocery store or about 1km up the road at Tripui the tienda sells fresh produce. Fuel is usually available at the marina but call ahead to check availability. There are no great beaches in the lagoon but snorkeling on the reefs and around the islands is great. For adventurous hikers the rugged canyon trails of the spectacular Sierra Gigantes are on the doorstep.

Bahia Tortugas is a beautiful circular cove which lies 20NM southeast of Punta Eugenia. The large, well sheltered bay is open to the southwest but two rocky headlands protect it from most of the westerly swell. There is plenty of space for plenty of boats to swing on anchor. It is the first stopping point for the Baja Haha Cruisers Rally.

Approaches

No info. Watch out for fishing floats at the entrance to the bay.

Anchorage

Good anchorage can be taken almost anywhere in the bay in 7-10m on a sandy bottom. The anchorage on the northern side of the bay past the jetty gives easy access to the village.

Dinghy in to the beach and meet Pero who, for a small stipend, will keep an eye on the dink while you have a look around.

Facilities

The village has several shops, a couple of restaurants and a cantina on the beach with wifi, cold showers and colder beers. There is patchy cellular reception in the bay. Fuel is available by jerry can from the petrol station in town, payment is by cash only. The Enrique family sell fuel at the dock or can deliver it to your boat at an extra charge and/or a free lunch. Watch out for scams as short measuring and water in the fuel have been reported here.

Main port of Entry and lots of local facilities - airports - resorts - etc
 

1st Day, Taiohae, from east to west

Petit Quai dinghy dock (pronounced “per-TEET KAY”), in order of appearance:

Chez Henri (Henry speaks English and can help solve most any problem the Marquesan way) (meals $8-$10): Internet WiFI with food purchase, mostly Marquesan menu, including the classic Marquesan poisson cru (lime-marinated fresh fish in fresh squeezed coconut milk), fresh squeezed fruit juices or citronade (lime-ade), and bananas you pull off one of the bunches hanging along the tent’s edge to eat with your meal (just as Californians eat tortilla chips with Mexican food).  For dessert: gateau beurre (butter cake), ice cream, or firi-firi (French Polynesian donut). No alcohol served (BYOB from Kamake, see below).

Boutique selling nice shirts, skirts, caps, and Hinano stickers.

Dive store, filling tanks and taking you out, but no classes.

Yacht Services Nuku Hiva, Kevin can help you check in and/or with boat problems (the American way).  He sells Marquesan courtesy flags, souvenirs, and houses one of the island’s premiere tattoo artists: Moana.   YSNH can also set you up with one of their many island tours.  Laundry and WiFi are just some of the services he offers.

Trash and oil dump.

Fresh fruits and vegetable stand, daily 6am-3pm except Sundays. (4 a.m. Saturday if you want tomatoes!!!)

Chez Celina, in the market place at the end of the quay, serves local dishes, ($6-$10), cold beer, and Wi-Fi with a purchase. Serves standard Marquesan fare as well as Marquesan dishes with international spiced variations

Quay restrooms are now payable ($1, or free when you eat at Celina’s), but not yet well maintained.  We “lobbied” to improve this circumstances, asking that they have toilet seats, doors, toilet paper, soap and drying towels. Would also like to see the showers working too. There’s a place to hand wash clothes behind the building near the toilets.  During rains, the non-potable water is brown with sediment and stains clothes.  Currently no potable tap water in Taiohae, except one of the three free filtered water stations.  None close to the quai.

Communal artisan center, more active when a cruise ship passes through.  If you see something you like, buy it.  It might not be there tomorrow. When larger cruise ships pull into port, Ua Pou arrives to sell inexpensive black pearls.

Tourist office, with maps and information about the Marquesas.  Speak English.  Can set you up with tours: Richard Dean and Jocylene speak English.  Average tour cost $65 pp plus lunch.  Tourist office has the best public restrooms on Nuku Hiva!!!!

Saturday morning flea market (marche de puce), 5-6:30am, fresh seafood and prepared foods. Tuna, wahoo, etc. $5/kilo.  Live lobster, $15/kilo (out of season Feb-April).

Magasin Kamake and Magasin Larsson Stores.

Taiohae has 5 general stores and 2 hardware stores.  Larssons, next to Kamake sells higher-end items like curries, coconut oil, etc.  The store furthest away, past the pharmacy, is open 7 days a week.  The one behind the bank, across from the stadium field, is open during lunch, Monday-Sat.

Cold anything, including soft drinks, beer ($2.50-$3/can), wine, chocolate, meats, cheese, and ice cream

Fresh baked baguette bread ($0.70) and pastries daily except Sundays and holidays.  Kamake open 5:30-11:30am Mon-Sat, 2-6:30pm Mon-Fri, Larsson’s opens later.

Fresh vegetables and inexpensive casse-croute (sandwiches) sold in front of Kamake until 11:30am.

These stores offer free truck rides to the Petit Quai if you have a heavy or large purchase, but you have to ask.

Kou’eva - Inland ceremonial grounds, restored for traditional cultural festivals. Turn right up the center street, between Magasin Kamake and Magasin Larsson. Walk about a mile up, super small sign on the right side of street marks right turn toward Taiohae’s reconstructed ceremonial grounds.  It’s further than you think and not evident which way to turn . . . ask.

Walking back to the seafront.  As you descend, Chez Bigo hardware store is to your right, just before the bus stop, across the small bridge.  They serve cold drinks and packaged snacks like candy bars.

Moana Nui Restaurant, Pension, and Car Rental - More European than Marquesan menu ($12-$30).  Great steak. Serves French-style pizza, beer and wine and mixed drinks. More expensive than Petit Quai “Snack” cafes, less expensive than Pearl Lodge.

Cathedral Taiohae - Ask permission to enter building.  Strict protocols. Rose Corsair, on the westside of the bay, sells a guidebook for Nuku Hiva that includes descriptions of elements within the cathedral. Beautiful woodcarvings inside and out.
Sunday mass begins with meditative chants at 7am, regular mass at 8am, ends 9-9:30am.
Look for the Marquesan version of the Christian cross (previously Marquesan symbol for southern cross, I think). Butted together, the Marquesan cross looks like a pattern of men.

Tohua Temehea - Seaside ceremonial grounds, built for traditional cultural festivals since 1989. Read the informational sign on-site (in French and English) for details

Melville Monument - Tucked in on the shore side, neighbouring the western cemetery.
Wonderfully carved tree stump with weathered roof top and missing elements, shows the path he hiked out of Taiohae and over to Taipi Vai. This is where Melville reportedly jumped ship and headed for the hills.

Joel’s Bella Pizza
Great pizza, ($12.50-$18; $3 delivery to Petit Quai), a less expensive alternative to Moana Nui Restaurant’s pizza.  The “Indian” and “Petit Quai” are our favorites. Better than the pizza are the desserts, tiramisu and cheesecake ($4, large slices)

Restaurant and Marquesas Museum at Chez Rose’s (American cruiser, arrived in 1972, moved here in 1977.) Far west side of bay.  Never know when it’s open.  Knock.  Great exhibit. Sells a great Nuku Hiva guidebook in multiple languages. Restaurant serves an excellent hamburger.
A more casual Friday night happy hour than Pearl Lodge, Kevin sometimes sets up a taxi from his YSNH shop to transport cruisers to and fro.
Free WiFi, password free (some anchor their boats at this side of the bay to closer to her wifi).

Pearl Lodge - Nuku Hiva’s gorgeous (expensive) bar, restaurant ($18-$40), hotel ($225/night).  Very nice! Beautiful view of Taiohae Bay. Friday evening Happy Hour, half off beautiful $14 cocktails (or as I see it, two for the price of one!)

Swimming
Remember in the Marquesas, beach equals no-no’s. They breed in the sand between fresh and seawater.  Usually, the whiter the sand, it seems, the greater the no-no’s.
Kouvea beach to the east, in front of the French Administrator’s residence
Beach to the west, in front of Rose’s place, but more no-no’s than Kouvea
Colette’s Bay, see “Hikes” below.