The city of La Paz lies on the southern shore of Bahia de La Paz and is protected from the swell by a broad sandspit. La Paz is a wonderful town to visit with ancient buildings oozing history, fantastic restaurants and a great market in the cobbled streets of the old town. The anchorage and several marinas lie on the malecon in the heart of town.

La Paz is a port of entry. It is great for provisioning, getting boat work done, picking up guests or crew and for meeting other cruisers. Club Cruceros is a social club set up for cruisers by cruisers. They have a radio net each morning and the club house at Marina La Paz is a very useful port of call when first arriving in La Paz.

Approaches

The channel behind the sand spit which drains a large lagoon has strong tidal flows and it is recommended to go in on a rising flood tide. It is well buoyed and regularly dredged but when the wind blows over 25kt waves break across the entrance making passage in to the anchorage dangerous. Then the harbour closes for departing traffic but vessels are still permitted to enter.

Anchorage

Anchor on either side of the main channel through the harbour, keeping a sharp lookout to avoid unmarked shoals in the waterway. The anchorage can be quite crowded with dozens of yachts swinging around as the tide ebbs and flows - known by the locals as the La Paz waltz.

Anchor in the town anchorage outside of the channel in 3-5m on a sandy bottom. The holding is moderate but boats often drag in the strong currents draining the lagoon. The sand spit, El Mogote, provides protection from the swell but the anchorage is exposed to the northerly wind.

The anchor across the channel on the El Mogote side of the bay at 3m in sand. This anchorage is better protected from northerly winds. Dinghy to shore to one of the dinghy docks in town or to the beach east of Marina Cortez. Dinghy to the beach at the east end of El Mogote for a meal at Paraiso del Mar or for a great walk  along the sand spit.

A nominal charge is made for anchoring and can be paid at the API office on the Malecon beside the commercial pier.

Facilities

La Paz has everything a cruiser needs: bulk stores, superstores and OXXO convenience stores, shops of all shapes and sizes, markets, medical services, banking services . . . and much more. The morning broadcast of the Club Cruceros radio net (VHF 22a) tells what’s happening in town, weather and tide information, as well as the low down on yoga classes and where to get your dinghy fixed and anything else you need to know.

Whale sharks are common in Bahia de La Paz during the dry season (October to April) and tours can be booked in La Paz.

La Paz is a port of entry and obtaining a Temporary Import Permit is reported to be straightforward. The Customs and immigration offices located in the Federal Building behind the municipal quay and the Port captain’s office is in Calle Francesco Madero north of the quay. When departing and heading to another Mexican port just call the Port Captain on VHF 16, it is not necessary to visit his office again. Although this sounds easier it can cause a problem in Bahia de Navidad where the port captain requires the paperwork.

The natural land shield of islands and sand bar makes the inner bay at Puerto Escondido one of the best hurricane holes in the Sea of Cortez. The bay is totally protected from any swell and only exposed to winds from the north and southeast.

Unfortunately anchoring in this wonderful natural harbour is prohibited leaving a berth in the marina or moorings owned by the marina as the only options.

Puerto Escondido lies within the Loreto Bay National Marine Park which stretches from Isla Colorado in the north to Isla Carolina in the south. Upwellings and wind-driven currents in this area pull nutrients up to the surface attracting blue whales, humpbacks and dolphins as well a hosts of fish and seabirds. The national park became a United Nations World Heritage Site in 2005.

Approaches

The minimum depth in the entrance channel into the Inner Bay and the marina is 11’ and it is regularly dredged.

Anchorage

In 2018 anchoring in the Puerto Escondido Inner Bay was prohibited. 119 moorings are available from the marina for a fee. As of 2019 the fee for a 30-40’ boat is 3.60 peso/ft plus tax. Getting ashore is easiest at the dinghy dock in the marina.

Facilities

Water is available at the end of the dinghy dock for boaters in the anchorage. The marina has a small grocery store or about 1km up the road at Tripui the tienda sells fresh produce. Fuel is usually available at the marina but call ahead to check availability. There are no great beaches in the lagoon but snorkeling on the reefs and around the islands is great. For adventurous hikers the rugged canyon trails of the spectacular Sierra Gigantes are on the doorstep.

The beautiful old town of Loreto was founded by the Jesuits in 1697 and was the first settlement on the Baja Peninsula. In 1767 the Jesuits were expelled by the Franciscans who were in turn forced out by the Dominicans in 1769. It was the capital of Spanish colonial rule on the west coast of the Americas until a mission was established in Monterrey, California in 1777. Loreto lies at the southern end of the Camino Real the ancient route linking the Spanish missions and ending in Sonoma, CA.

Unfortunately Loreto is very much a roadstead anchorage, protected from the west and wonderful in calm conditions. It is open to wind and swell from the north and south but it is only 9NM across to Isla Carmen if conditions deteriorate.

The Darsena (fishing harbour) is shoal with a maximum depth of 2.5m in the entrance channel and in the centre. It is a magnet for sports fishermen and is usually full of local boats.

Approaches

Stay at least 0.5NM off the shore to avoid garbage from the river mouth.

Anchorage

Anchor outside the breakwater of the Darsena in 5m mud with good holding. Dinghy ashore to the U-shaped dinghy dock opposite the harbour entrance or to the beach if conditions allow.

Facilities

Loreto is a great location to stop for provisioning and refueling before the cruising in the upper reaches of the Sea of Cortez. There are several supermarkets and a farmers market, hardware stores and marine supply shops, banks, laundries and a service station as well as numerous restaurants and hotels. There is a hospital on the outskirts of the town. Cruisers have recommended shopping in the mornings as the wind tends to pick up in the afternoon.

The city has been passed by by mainstream tourism and has managed to retain it’s Mexican soul and old world charm. Loreto and it’s environs are awash with churches, missions and other historic buildings, many of which house museums. Hike into the nearby Sierra de la Giganta to find cave paintings and fabulous views. Loreto has a well connected international airport and is a good place for meeting crew or friends.

Diesel and gasoline are available at the fuel dock in the Darsena.

The town of Santa Rosalia was founded by a French company in order to mine copper from the surrounding hills. The mine closed in 1954 but the facilities were never dismantled and plans to resurrect the mine are being considered. Despite it’s industrial heart Santa Rosalia boasts a French influence in it’s architecture, particularly the gothic-inspired Iglesia de Santa Barbara built of galvanized steel and designed by Gustave Eiffel.

Santa Rosalia is a roadstead anchorage but it is possible to anchor inside the harbour wall for protection from the swell. However the harbour is open to the south and during the summer months some swell can get in. Call the Port Captain to request permission to enter the harbour.

Approaches

No info

Anchorage

Anchor inside the harbour wall in 6m on a muddy bottom. Land the dinghy at the small beach northwest of the marina or go tie up at the floating dock at the marina.

Facilities

Santa Rosalia is a big town with plenty of options for provisioning and refueling. There are several grocery stores, banks, a hospital and numerous restaurants and hotels in the town. The Iglesia de Santa Barbara and the Mining Museum are interesting to visit and the El Boleo bakery cannot be missed.

San Felipe is a remote desert community of about 25,000 people located on the east coast of the Baja Peninsula at the very top of the Sea of Cortez. Congratulations if you have made it here! It is home to a sizeable shrimp-fishing fleet of small pangas however the principal source of income is from tourism, mainly snow birds from USA and Canada who own a second home in the town.

The bay is protected from the south and west but is exposed to weather and swell from the north and east. Southerly swell is likely to wrap around in to the bay. The harbour is gradually silting up and large parts of it are shoal, the minimum depth in the entrance channel is 2.7m. Contact the Port Captain to check current depths in the channel and for permission to enter the harbour.

Marina Fonatur San Felipe in the southern corner of the harbour has fifteen slips for boats upto 80’ in length.

Approaches

Be careful coming in at night as the lights of the commercial dock can be seen over the breakwater and can be confused with the entrance lights of the harbour.

Anchorage

Anchor opposite the harbour entrance in 7m on sand. Dinghy ashore to the beach inside the harbour or at the marina.

Facilities

Most essential needs can be met in San Felipe with a propane store, a couple of banks, numerous supermarkets and grocery stores, masses of restaurants and a night club. There are a number of clinics in town but the hospital is closed. The town is a 2NM dinghy ride or an $8 taxi ride from the marina.

All the shoreside facilities Marina Fonatur San Felipe have been recently renewed and are in excellent condition including a hotel, a bar and a laundry. Unfortunately the floating docks are in very poor condition but work is on going to build new dockage modules. Cockroaches are a problem on the docks, spray your dock lines with roach poison to keep them at bay.

There is reportedly no dockage fee charged at the fuel dock. The local water is safe to drink but has a high mineral content. Internet services are very expensive but many of the cafes and restaurants in town have wifi.

Drake Bay is named after the British hero and notorious pirate Sir Francis Drake who anchored here back in the 16th century and whose treasure is purportedly buried somewhere close by. The anchorage on the southern side of the bay is sheltered from southerly and easterly winds but is open to the north. Some swell manages to wrap around Punta San Jose so it can be rolly.

The settlement of Drake Bay, located at the northern tip of the Osa Peninsula, is very isolated and can only be reached by 4WD. The route includes more than twenty river crossings making it a difficult place to access in the wet season, except for yachties of course.

The village has some low key, backpacker style tourism. The main attraction of Drake Bay is a visit to the Corcovado National Park, the biggest park in Costa Rica but because of its inaccessibility it is off the itinerary for most tourists.

Approaches

No info

Anchorage

The centre of the bay can be a bit rolly but tuck in behind the point close to the river mouth for a more comfortable night. Anchor in 7.5m muddy sand with good holding. If waves are breaking on the beach take the dinghy to the west end for a drier landing.

Alternatively go into the river mouth on the west side of the bay and tie up to the dinghy dock of the Aguila de Osa Inn. They will charge you a small fee for mooring but your dinghy will be safe. It is a short walk on a muddy path to the west end of the beach.

Facilities

Drake Bay is one of my favorite anchorages in Costa Rica. The funky village is good for provisioning with a bakery and two well stocked supermarkets, several restaurants with wifi and numerous tour operators. The Corcovado tours will collect you directly from your boat. Swim in the bay at your own risk, crocodiles are regularly seen in the river mouth. Fuel can be bought by jerry can at the Aguila de Osa Inn dinghy dock.

A tour to the Corcavado National Park is a must. A speed boat takes you 20NM down the coast to the Sirena Ranger Station where the $15pp fee is collected. It is not possible to enter the park without a guide but our guide Carlos was worth every penny. He was knowledgeable about everything from leaf-carrying ants to the breeding cycle of green tree frogs and skilled at spotting monkeys and birds high up in the canopy, finding tiny lizards and frogs lurking in the shadows under leaves and tracking down the elusive tapir.

Quepos, named for the indigenous Quepoa indians who inhabited the area, is the gateway to the famous Manuel Antonio National Park. The bay has no protection from the swell and is open to weather from south to northwest.

The town has most of the facilities a discerning cruiser needs but is difficult to access by dinghy: surf is normally breaking on the beach and the marina has no dinghy dock, it is possible to dinghy up the river at high tide.

Approaches

No info

Anchorage

The anchorage lies outside the marina so try to stay clear of the entrance. Pick a spot amongst the local boats that are moored in the area and anchor in 5m on sand. Shore access is difficult if there is any swell running. Waves breaking on the beach make landing the dinghy hazardous. The marina has no dinghy dock but offer a pick-up service. For $35 they will collect you from the anchorage however they limit time ashore to just 30 minutes. Alternatively at high tide dinghies can be taken into the lagoon in front of the town and tie up to the public doc. Stay close to the marina breakwater and the harbour wall to avoid the sand bar which extends from the northwest across the river mouth but do not try to enter if swell is breaking across the mouth.

Facilities

Quepos is the largest town in the area and has a hospital, several banks and supermarkets and numerous hotels and restaurants. It is possible to get a bus from here to Manuel Antonio National Park but if you intend to anchor at the park it is necessary to get an anchoring permit from the National Park office in Quepos. Dinghies or vessels are allowed to enter the marina to buy fuel but call ahead for permission to enter.

Manuel Antonio is both the smallest and the most famous park in Costa Rica. It’s renowned for its vast diversity of tropical plants and wildlife including three-toed sloths and endangered white-faced capuchin monkeys. It is incredibly popular with long queues at the entrance gate, sometimes the wait may be more than a 30 minutes.

Tamarindo, or Tamagringo as it is affectionately called, lies at the heart of Costa Rica’s “Gold Coast”. The large bay is open the north and south offering little protection from the weather or swell. Tamarindo is a tourist town popular with surfers drawn by the consistent and accessible waves. Beginners can learn to surf on the beach break at Playa Tamarindo, other bigger waves break either side of the rivermouth and along Playa Grande, the beautiful beach to the north of the river.

Playa Grande lies within the Las Baulas National Marine Park and is home to the largest nesting colony of leatherback turtles on the Pacific coast of the Americas. The females come ashore between October and May to lay their eggs and turtle watching tours can be booked in Tamarindo.The river estuary is also home to howler monkeys and crocodiles.

Approaches

Rounding Mount Hermoso keep clear of rocks around 10° 19.96 N -85° 52.02 W at the north end of the beach. A large submerged reef is located in the middle of the bay to the north of the anchorage around 10° 18.0 to 18.5 N -85° 50.60 to 51.10 W.  Breaking waves make the reef easy to spot at low tide, otherwise follow the route that the tour boats take coming in and out of the bay.

Anchorage

The anchorage is full of tour boats on moorings but there should still be room for a few visiting yachts. Anchor east of Isla Capitan in 6.7m on a sandy bottom with some rocks. Boats have reported dragging while setting anchor but once set the holding is good. This is a rolly anchorage although Isla Capitan does provide some shelter from the swell.

Landing the dinghy on the beach can be hazardous if swell is coming into the bay. The stretch of beach beside the large white hotel with a pale blue building in the trees in front of it is reported to have less wave action. Taking the dinghy into the estuary is possible but watch out for the sand bar across the mouth where waves are normally breaking. Alternatively leave the dinghy on the boat and use Mandred's Taxi Service (WhatsApp +506 7035 1724). He charges $US 10 p/p for a round trip.

Facilities

Tamarindo is packed with hotels and surf camps, restaurants and bars. There is also banks, a laundry, grocery stores and a large supermarket close to the river mouth.