Puerto Escondido is a major surfing destination and a marginal anchorage during the summer months except in calm conditions. Pounding swell creates perfect pipes and surfers from all over the world arrive here to compete in surf tournaments or just to ride a dream wave. The anchorage at the northern end of the bay is protected from the north and east but exposed to wind and swell from south and west.

In the early twentieth century the small fishing village in the northern corner of Bahia Escondido was established as a port for shipping coffee. Construction of highway 200 in the 1960’s brought potable water, surfers and eventually mass tourism to the area. Nonetheless the houses clustered around Playa Principal still retain some of their small town charm.

Approaches

The approach to Bahia Escondido is straight forward.

Anchorage

The sheltered part of the bay is full of moorings and local boats with rarely any space to anchor. Watch out for rocks off Mirador Romance on the east side of the cove and find a spot behind the mooring field in 6-8m on a sandy bottom. A stern anchor is recommended for a slightly more comfortable night. Land the dinghy at the west end of the beach behind the breakwater but be prepared for a surf landing.

Facilities

The town of Puerto Escondido has amenities to suit most cruisers needs. Restaurants and hotels fill the space between Playa Principal and the highway and on the north side you will find the centre of town with bakeries, grocery stores and supermarkets for provisioning, hardware stores, banks and hospitals, and a service station on the highway for filling jerry cans.

The town stretches down behind Playa Zicatela to the southern end of the beach and the road is lined with surf shops selling gear, lessons and board rental.

The anchorage in the lagoon at Barra de Navidad is a very popular spot for cruising boats and is the starting point of the Panama Posse Rally which sails from California to Florida. However the marina and the lagoon itself have plenty of space for dozens of boats. The lagoon is exposed to wind from the northwest but is otherwise wonderfully calm and tranquil. Sand flies and mosquitos can be a problem here.

Approaches

The entrance to the sinuous channel into Laguna de Barra de Navidad lies behind the town in the southeast corner of the bay. In moderate to large swell conditions breaking waves form across the bar. Wait for calm conditions to enter the lagoon.

The channel is marked with paired green/red buoys as far as the marina. From the marina entrance it is unmarked but steer approximately SE towards waypoint 119o 11.71’N 104o  40.54’W to enter the lagoon. The channel is fairly straight and approximately 5m deep.

Anchorage

The lagoon has several shoal areas so keep your eyes peeled when choosing a spot to anchor. Anchoring depth in the lagoon is about 2-4m on mud. Anchors have been known to drag on the muddy bottom, particularly in the afternoon when the NW breezes picks up. Dinghy into the dinghy dock at the marina or at one of the docks in town on the inside of the lagoon.

Facilities

The town of Barra de Navidad boasts several grocery stores and a fish market, one or two laundromats and numerous restaurants. The French baker here is legendary, call him on VHJF22 and he will deliver right to your boat. There are a couple of ATMs but the nearest bank is in Melaque. The water taxi from the anchorage to town is good value.

During the mid-16th century the Spanish used the lagoon for ship building and as a departure point for fleets leaving for the Philippines. In 2012 the town was damaged by a hurricane but has since rebuilt and has much to offer tourists and cruisers alike including sports fishing, surfing, golf, and hiking as well as the usual snorkeling and diving. Explore the canals on the east side of the town, the entrance is east of the palace on Punta Vela island.

Bahia Chamela is the first good anchorage southeast of Cabo Corrientes. The hook shaped headland of Punta Rivas at the northern end of the bay forms a sheltered cove where the village of Perula is located. Several more anchorages are dotted amongst the red rocky islands in the southern part of the bay.

The cove at Perula is open to southerly wind and swell but is sheltered from most other winds and is a popular anchorage in the winter months.

Approaches

When approaching from the north give Punta Perula a wide berth to avoid the reef on the southeast side of the point. Enter the bay mid channel between the point and Isla Pajarera and watch out for fish pens which are often anchored on the west side of the bay.

Anchorage

Tuck in behind Punta Perula and anchor in 10m on a sandy bottom. Use a stern anchor to point into the swell for a more comfortable night. When surf is crashing on the beach land the dinghy in the northwest corner of the beach by the river mouth where the waves are smaller. In calm conditions enter the river and tie up with the pangas.

Facilities

Perula has a handful of restaurants and several small grocery stores selling basics. Internet available in the village. The Playa Dorada Hotel offers showers and a laundry service. Good snorkeling can be had amongst the rocks around the Punta Perula.